What is Anglage?

Anglage, also known as chamfering or bevelling, is a traditional hand-finishing technique in watchmaking. It involves creating angled, polished edges on the components of a mechanical movement, such as bridges, plates, and levers. The purpose of anglage goes beyond aesthetics. It demonstrates craftsmanship, improves the longevity of the watch by removing sharp edges, and highlights the skill of the artisan who executed the work.

The technique is considered one of the highest forms of decorative finishing in horology. It requires precision, patience, and years of training. While invisible to the casual wearer, anglage is a hallmark of haute horlogerie and a key indicator of the quality and artistry of a fine mechanical watch.

Historical Background of Anglage

The roots of anglage can be traced back to the early centuries of mechanical clock and watch production. In the 18th and 19th centuries, watchmakers in Switzerland, France, and Germany began refining not only the functional aspects of watch movements but also their aesthetic presentation. Movements became canvases for artisans to display skill, with techniques such as perlage, Côtes de Genève, and anglage used to elevate watches from simple tools to works of art.

Anglage was initially practical. By beveling the edges of movement parts, watchmakers removed sharp corners that could collect dust or produce stress fractures. Over time, however, it evolved into an art form. In the 20th century, with the rise of luxury Swiss houses, anglage became a distinguishing feature of fine watches, signalling hand craftsmanship in an increasingly industrialised world.

The Technique of Anglage

Performing anglage is a slow and meticulous process. The artisan begins with raw movement components, typically made of brass, German silver, or steel. Sharp edges created during the machining process are carefully removed using small files. The edges are then shaped into a bevel, often at a 45-degree angle, though this may vary depending on design and tradition.

Once the bevel is established, the surface is gradually refined with abrasive papers, stones, and polishing sticks. The goal is to achieve a flawless surface that reflects light cleanly, without scratches or irregularities. In the final stage, the bevelled edge is polished to a mirror-like finish, often using wood or peg sticks charged with fine polishing paste.

What distinguishes true anglage from machine beveling is the perfection of the line and surface. Machine-made chamfers are often uniform but lack the crisp internal angles, sharp transitions, and reflective brilliance that a skilled hand can create. The most admired anglages feature sharp inward and outward angles, known as interior and exterior points, which are extremely difficult to achieve by hand.

Functional and Aesthetic Purposes

Although anglage is primarily decorative today, it also serves functional roles. By removing sharp corners, the process reduces the risk of fractures and helps prevent small cracks that could compromise the stability of components. It also prevents burrs, which might interfere with the smooth functioning of gears and levers.

Aesthetically, anglage transforms a utilitarian surface into a refined element of beauty. When light strikes the polished bevels, they produce reflections that highlight the geometry of the movement. Through a display case back, the wearer can appreciate the play of light across bevelled edges, revealing the care and attention dedicated to the watch’s construction.

Types of Anglage

While the basic principle of bevelling is consistent, there are variations in style and execution depending on the tradition of the manufacturer and the preferences of the artisan.

Straight bevels: Simple, polished bevels along the edge of a bridge or plate.
Rounded bevels: Curved surfaces requiring even greater control to produce a smooth, flowing transition.
Sharp interior angles: Considered one of the greatest tests of skill, as the artisan must maintain flawless polish where two bevels meet at an acute angle.
Exterior points: The outward corners where bevels converge, equally challenging to execute without rounding.

The highest level of anglage combines multiple styles on a single component, showcasing a mastery of technique and artistic vision.

Anglage in Haute Horlogerie

In haute horlogerie, anglage is seen as a declaration of excellence. Brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne devote countless hours to hand-finishing movement parts. Independent watchmakers, including Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi, are also renowned for the extraordinary quality of their anglage, which often becomes a signature of their craftsmanship.

The presence of hand-finished anglage indicates that a watch was made with dedication to tradition rather than efficiency. Collectors and connoisseurs look for such details when evaluating high-end watches, as they signify time and labour invested in each piece.

The Collector’s Perspective

For collectors, anglage is more than just decoration. It is proof of authenticity, quality, and respect for horological tradition. A beautifully executed bevel demonstrates that the watch was not merely assembled by machines but shaped by human hands.

Collectors often use a loupe to inspect the sharpness and consistency of bevels, searching for the crisp interior angles and mirror-like surfaces that mark the finest work. Such details are often invisible at a glance but reveal themselves under magnification, rewarding those who take the time to explore the movement’s artistry.

Challenges in Performing Anglage

The difficulty of anglage lies in its precision. A single slip of the file or polishing stick can ruin an edge, forcing the artisan to begin again or discard the component entirely. Achieving uniformity across dozens of parts, each with different shapes and curves, requires not only technical skill but also immense patience.

Furthermore, the time required for anglage makes it costly. A high-end watch movement may require hundreds of hours of hand-finishing, with anglage consuming a significant portion of that time. This is one reason why watches featuring true hand-finished anglage command higher prices in the market.

Modern Approaches to Anglage

In today’s industry, many watches use machine-applied bevels to save time and cost. While these chamfers can look clean, they lack the sharp definition and polish of true anglage. Some brands combine machine finishing with hand-polishing to achieve a balance between efficiency and artistry.

At the pinnacle of watchmaking, however, full hand-finishing remains a mark of distinction. Independent workshops and top-tier maisons continue to resist the shortcuts of industrial production, valuing anglage as an expression of artistry rather than mere ornamentation.

The Aesthetic and Emotional Dimension

Anglage is not just about surfaces. It conveys emotion, heritage, and philosophy. A watch with carefully hand-polished bevels embodies the dedication of the artisan who shaped it, leaving behind invisible signatures of skill and pride. For many enthusiasts, the joy of owning such a watch lies in knowing that beauty exists even in the smallest, hidden details.

The shimmering bevels reflect light like facets of a gemstone, creating an interplay of brilliance within the movement. This interaction between light, form, and craftsmanship elevates the mechanical watch into a work of wearable art.

Conclusion

Anglage is one of the most revered finishing techniques in horology. More than just bevelling, it is a fusion of utility, craftsmanship, and beauty. From its historical role in preventing fractures to its modern function as a hallmark of haute horlogerie, anglage represents the highest ideals of watchmaking.

It requires immense skill, patience, and artistic sensitivity, making it one of the clearest distinctions between industrially produced watches and those crafted by true masters. For collectors and enthusiasts, anglage is not simply a finishing detail. It is a celebration of human artistry and the enduring pursuit of perfection within the world of mechanical timekeeping.