Jewelled Watch Once Owned by Empress Marie-Louise Could Fetch €60,000 at Auction
An extraordinary gold and enamel necklace watch, dating back to the early 19th century, will be auctioned on June 25 at 1:30 PM BST on Sotheby's. Estimated to achieve between €40,000 and €60,000, the watch is attributed to Marie-Etienne Nitot, founder of the prestigious Parisian jeweller Nitot & Fils, official supplier to Napoleon I. This rare artefact is believed to have belonged to Empress Marie-Louise, Napoleon’s second wife, making it a highly desirable piece for collectors of both fine jewellery and Napoleonic history.
The necklace watch is a masterclass in craftsmanship, featuring a royal blue guilloché enamel surface framed with old-cut diamonds. The front bears the monogram “ML” in elegant English script beneath a detailed imperial crown. On the reverse side, a diamond-paved five-pointed star adds to the watch’s opulence. A silver ring and movable bail, also set with diamonds, complete the delicate design. Its petite size, 3.1 cm in diameter and 4.5 cm in total height, conceals the immense historic and aesthetic value it carries.
A Gift from the Empress, Preserved Through Generations
The provenance of this piece is as rich as its decoration. It is believed to have been a personal item of Marie-Louise, likely given as a token of favour to Jeanne Charlotte de Lucay, a lady-in-waiting who served the Empress from 1810 to 1814. The watch has remained in the family ever since, eventually being sold to the current owner by descendants of de Lucay.
Its rarity is enhanced by its maker's marks: the number 5480 engraved on the bow of the bail, and the initials “M.C.” on the reverse of the cover. These features, along with the lavish use of diamonds and the detailed enamelling, set this watch apart from typical court gifts of the era. Unlike many similar watches created for gifting, this example’s refined design and personalised monogram suggest it was commissioned for the Empress herself or intended as a particularly high-status gift.
A Collector’s Dream with Imperial Pedigree
Records from the era, including those preserved in the Bibliothèque Thiers, show Marie-Louise had a particular fondness for commissioning elegant neck watches. Between 1810 and 1815, she ordered numerous enameled timepieces from top craftsmen such as Abraham-Louis Breguet, Jean-André Lepaute, Etienne Mugnier, and Nitot. These watches varied in decoration, some were enriched with pearls, others with brilliant diamonds, and were often given to ladies of her court as signs of appreciation or loyalty.
This necklace watch is a prime example of that tradition. Its combination of rich blue enamel, rose-cut diamonds, and imperial motifs makes it exceptional. Other watches from the period often include design elements such as bees, laurel wreaths, or delicate floral motifs. However, few have matched the opulence and personal touch evident in this piece. The flowing English-script monogram is especially notable, as most monograms of the time were block letters. This subtle detail strongly suggests that the watch was either worn by the Empress herself or specially commissioned for a loved one.
A Rare Piece of Royal Heritage
Appearing in catalogues and exhibitions dedicated to Napoleonic artefacts, this necklace watch has been documented in works by renowned historians and collectors. It was displayed during the 30th Biennale in Paris and featured in several major publications focused on the material legacy of the French Empire. With its rich provenance, impeccable design, and historical ties to one of Europe’s most storied royal figures, this necklace watch represents a rare opportunity to own a piece of living history.
Potential bidders and collectors are encouraged to register in advance for the live auction, where this symbol of imperial elegance will finally change hands for the first time in generations.
