Barrington’s Monthly Watch Roundup: September 2025
September 2025 was a defining month for the agile, independent watch sector, delivering a wave of technical innovation and specialized releases. For collectors in the UK and US, the focus moved away from the large conglomerates toward smaller brands that are aggressively challenging established norms in material science, movement specification, and collaborative design.
Here are four of the most compelling updates from the world of automatic and high-end independent watchmaking last month.
1. Technical Upgrade: Formex Debuts COSC-Certified Ceramic Power
Micro-brand Formex, an independent known for its engineering focus, achieved a major milestone in September by launching new solid-dial options for its Essence Ceramica collection. More importantly, this launch marked the debut of its proprietary new automatic movement, the Soprod Newton P092.
This is a significant technical achievement for a brand in this segment. The watches feature full ceramic cases and bracelets, a material noted for its superior scratch resistance and lightweight nature. The new automatic calibre is the result of a three-year co-design and development period with Soprod, ensuring it meets Formex's exact specifications. The movement is both COSC chronometer certified and has passed the highly rigorous Chronofiable testing for shock resistance and accelerated aging, offering enthusiasts an exceptionally robust and precise automatic "engine" for around $3,690 (USD).
2. Collaborative Design: Studio Underd0g and Fears' Manhattan
The strength of the independent British watchmaking scene was underscored by the successful launch of the 02SERIES Manhattan limited edition, a collaboration between Studio Underd0g (SU) and Fears.
This release focused intensely on aesthetic innovation. The dial is a multi-layered construction: a sunburst silver base with a radial fumé finish sits beneath a 1mm-thick amber sapphire disc. This arrangement creates an optical effect where printed markers appear to float, giving the watch a dynamic, cocktail-inspired depth. While this model is powered by the manual-winding Sellita SW210-1, the high-concept design and successful pairing of SU’s bold aesthetic with Fears’ heritage confirms the strong collective momentum and design sophistication within the smaller UK watch sector.
3. Niche Innovation: The Accessible Loresum Micro-Rotor
The movement towards ultra-compact and accessible mechanical innovation continues to grow. In September, the UK micro-brand Loresum released the LS06 Charoite, which features a distinctive Charoite stone dial.
Crucially for mechanical enthusiasts, the LS06 is powered by the Hangzhou calibre HZ5000a automatic micro-rotor movement. Micro-rotor movements, where the winding mass is integrated into the movement plate, are typically reserved for high-end luxury pieces as they allow for a significantly slimmer watch profile. Bringing this complication into a sub-£500 price point for a new release demonstrates how micro-brands are constantly leveraging global supply chains to offer "incredible specs" and premium features at attainable prices.
4. Institutional Validation: Chanel Secures MB&F's Future
In a high-level strategic move that validates the entire independent sector, Chanel announced the acquisition of a 25% minority stake in the high-horology independent brand MB&F.1
Although MB&F is ultra-niche, this investment is a critical endorsement. Founder Maximilian Büsser maintains a controlling 60% majority shareholding, ensuring the brand’s creative freedom remains intact.1 The transaction provides MB&F with essential long-term "stability and resilience" and a strong institutional partner.1 This action signals to the wider market that innovative, specialized, and mechanically complex automatic watchmaking, even at the lowest volume, is a vital asset worth institutional protection and investment, securing the future of unconventional design.
