Onward and Upward: Insights from the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers

The Complexities of Modern Watch Servicing

Servicing a mechanical watch can be far more complicated than many collectors anticipate. In the early days of Tudor’s Black Bay line, models were fitted with the ETA 2824 movement, a workhorse calibre that benefitted from widespread parts availability and relatively low servicing costs. Independent watchmakers could source components easily, often from existing stock or donor movements. With the introduction of Tudor’s in-house movements, servicing became more expensive and often slower, with parts restricted to authorised channels and specialist training required. The situation reflects a broader shift in the industry: as more brands move towards proprietary calibres, repair options narrow, and owners increasingly rely on brand-operated service centres. For enthusiasts, the notion of a purely sustainable, long-term mechanical watch ownership experience can be challenged by the realities of restricted servicing pathways.

Business Lessons from Rolex

Swiss academic Pierre-Yves Donzé, a leading historian of the watch industry, has examined the evolution of Rolex in his recent book The Making of a Status Symbol: A Business History of Rolex. The study explores how the brand transitioned from a focus on chronometric precision to becoming one of the most recognised symbols of social prestige worldwide. By combining selective marketing, controlled distribution, and a consistent product strategy, Rolex created an aura that extends beyond horology. Donzé’s earlier work, The Business of Time, remains a definitive global history of watchmaking, charting the shifts in production, trade, and consumer culture that have shaped the industry.

The Curious Case of Deadbeat Seconds

The deadbeat seconds complication, which causes the seconds hand to jump in precise one-second intervals, has a long and unexpected history. In traditional pendulum clocks, the slow oscillation naturally produced this visual effect. As wristwatch technology advanced, higher-frequency balances created the smooth sweeping motion associated with mechanical timepieces. In the 1960s, inventive mechanisms known as the "star and flirt" system allowed watchmakers to reintroduce the distinct tick in a mechanical context, demonstrating fine craftsmanship and engineering skill. However, the advent of quartz movements, which also produce one-second jumps, diminished its novelty. Today, deadbeat seconds is valued as a niche complication, admired by collectors for its historical roots and mechanical ingenuity.

Accuracy Under Scrutiny

Recent discussions in the enthusiast community have highlighted disappointment with the timekeeping performance of some modern mechanical movements. While design and comfort features such as micro-adjustable clasps have seen notable improvement, accuracy standards in many entry-level and mid-tier movements have not advanced at the same pace. Affordable automatic watches often use well-known calibres like the Seiko NH series, which, despite reliability, can show deviations of 35 to 45 seconds per day. Even celebrated movements such as the Swatch Group’s Powermatic 80 owe part of their extended power reserve to a reduction in beat rate, potentially impacting stability. A genuine breakthrough would be the widespread availability of mass-produced, affordably priced movements combining extended reserve with high frequency and consistently precise daily rates.

Economic Pressures in Swiss Production

The Swiss system of "Réduction de l’Horaire de Travail" (RHT) allows companies to temporarily reduce employees’ working hours during downturns, with the government compensating the wage difference. This approach maintains the employer–employee relationship while limiting redundancy costs and preserving industry expertise. Data from the past year shows persistent RHT claims within the Swiss watch sector, with over 1,600 employees affected each month. The figures suggest that while demand for watches remains substantial, production levels have been volatile, reflecting ongoing uncertainty in the global luxury goods market.

Supporting Independent Watchmakers through Auctions

In the fine art world, it is increasingly common for creators to receive a percentage of resale values through royalties or residuals. Inspired by this model, Marteau & Co., founded by industry veterans Leonard Pictet and Arthur Touchot, is introducing a similar initiative for independent watchmakers. Their debut online auction, scheduled for autumn, will include a 3% payment of the hammer price to the watchmaker. This system aims to create a sustainable revenue stream for independents, rewarding them for the rising value of their work and encouraging long-term creativity. By directly linking secondary market success to the maker’s benefit, Marteau & Co. is setting an example that could influence the structure of future watch auctions.