Audemars Piguet Expands Its Perpetual Calendar Offering
Perpetual calendars remain one of the most respected complications within haute horlogerie, and Audemars Piguet has a particularly rich history in their development. In September 2025 the manufacture introduced new references across its Royal Oak and Code 11.59 collections, further consolidating its expertise and continuing a legacy that stretches back nearly half a century.
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The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 38 mm
Two new interpretations of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar have been unveiled. The first pairs stainless steel with a light blue dial decorated with the Grande Tapisserie motif, while the second combines pink gold with a beige dial in the same finish. The cases measure 38 mm in diameter and 9.4 mm in thickness, proportions that broaden the appeal of the perpetual calendar within the Royal Oak family by offering a more compact option compared to the traditional 41 mm executions.
Inside beats the calibre 7136, an evolution of the calibre 7138 derived from the ultra-thin calibre 7121 that powers the latest generation of Royal Oaks. With a power reserve of around 55 hours and automatic winding, the movement offers reliability while reducing the visual complexity of the dial by omitting the day-of-the-week indicator. This design choice evokes earlier Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars from the 1990s and early 2000s, which were known for their more classical layouts.
The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar
In contrast, the Code 11.59 retains the day-of-the-week indication, as it is equipped with calibre 7138 rather than the updated 7136. The watch measures 38 mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.9 mm and offers 100 metres of water resistance, which is notable for a perpetual calendar complication.
The case is executed entirely in pink gold, including its architectural openworked lugs and middle case, a hallmark of the Code 11.59 line. The dial is finished in a green woven basket-like texture and paired with pink-gold indices and hands coated with luminescent material. This combination of texture and colour demonstrates Audemars Piguet’s ability to blend technical watchmaking with bold, contemporary aesthetics.
Historical Significance of AP Perpetual Calendars
Audemars Piguet has played a pivotal role in the history of the perpetual calendar wristwatch. In 1978 the brand released the reference 5548, the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar at the time. Measuring only 3.95 mm in movement thickness, it was powered by calibre 2120/2800 and established a new benchmark for slimness.
The release of the 5548 was particularly important because it came during the quartz crisis, a period when many mechanical watchmakers struggled to survive. By introducing an ultra-thin perpetual calendar, Audemars Piguet demonstrated the enduring value of mechanical complications and contributed to the revival of Swiss haute horlogerie.
Over the decades, the manufacture continued to refine its perpetual calendars, expanding from traditional round cases to the Royal Oak line in the 1980s and later incorporating more advanced materials, skeletonised dials and astronomical indications. The new 38 mm executions directly continue this lineage, combining contemporary movements with proportions and aesthetics that resonate with modern collectors.
Shared Details and Limited Production
Both the Royal Oak and Code 11.59 models include a moon-phase display featuring the historical Audemars Piguet logo, a subtle tribute to the brand’s heritage. Production of each reference is limited to 150 pieces, underlining their exclusivity.
Price and Market Positioning
While official pricing is communicated on request, estimates place the stainless steel Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar at approximately USD 110,900, while the pink-gold version is listed at CHF 120,000, around USD 150,000 at current exchange rates. Prices for the Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar are expected to be positioned similarly within the high-complication segment of the brand’s portfolio.
Why These Releases Matter
The introduction of these perpetual calendars strengthens Audemars Piguet’s position within one of the most prestigious categories of watchmaking. Collectors are presented with models that not only offer cutting-edge in-house movements but also draw on a design heritage that stretches back to the pivotal 1978 reference 5548.
The Royal Oak novelties highlight the enduring appeal of Gérald Genta’s design when combined with high complications, while the Code 11.59 offers a more experimental and contemporary alternative. Together, they illustrate how Audemars Piguet continues to balance its historical legacy with modern innovation, ensuring that its perpetual calendars remain both culturally relevant and technically significant in the 21st century.
