Bvlgari Serpenti: The Evolution of a Watchmaking Icon
Few symbols in global culture are as layered and contradictory as the serpent. It appears as a figure of temptation in the biblical narrative, yet across ancient civilisations it has stood for wisdom, renewal, protection and eternity. Egyptian pharaohs wore the uraeus cobra as a sign of divine authority, while in Greek mythology the staff of Asclepius entwined with a serpent became a lasting emblem of healing and medicine.
Jewellery has long drawn on this rich symbolism. Snake rings, in particular, were regarded as tokens of eternal love and gained renewed popularity during the Victorian era. Throughout the twentieth century, many jewellery houses experimented with serpentine motifs. Only one, however, elevated the snake from a decorative element to a defining creative language. That house was Bvlgari, and the result was Serpenti.
This is the story of Bvlgari Serpenti watches, from their restrained post-war beginnings in the late 1940s to their position today as one of the most recognisable designs in modern watchmaking.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
Why the Serpent
The answer lies deep within the identity of the maison itself. Bvlgari was founded in 1884 by Sotirios Boulgaris, a Greek silversmith who opened his first shop in Rome. To integrate more easily into Italian society, he later Italianised his name to Sotirio Bulgari. Two decades after establishing his business, he shifted his focus decisively towards jewellery.
After his death, the maison passed to his sons, Costantino and Giorgio, who anchored the brand’s aesthetic in Greco-Roman heritage and bold interpretations of classical forms. Within this visual and cultural framework, the serpent emerged naturally as a symbol of allure, power and feminine sophistication. Over time, it became a central motif through which Bvlgari articulated its creative identity.
The Late 1940s
In the aftermath of the Second World War, opulence was neither practical nor desirable. Jewellery design across Europe embraced restraint, functionality and material intelligence. The earliest Serpenti watches, introduced in 1948, reflected this climate.
These early pieces featured square cases that only loosely resembled the later serpent head, but the bracelet concept was already revolutionary.
Tubogas
From the very beginning, Serpenti relied on the Tubogas technique. This construction method uses no soldering. Instead, long metal strips with raised edges are tightly wound around a core, traditionally copper or wood. As the strips interlock, they form a flexible, hollow tube. Once complete, the core is removed, leaving an elastic structure that coils naturally around the wrist.
Originally patented in the nineteenth century for gas transport systems, the technique was reinterpreted by Bvlgari into a jewellery language that perfectly mimicked the movement and anatomy of a snake. Although Tubogas was present from the outset, it took the maison nearly fifteen years to fully master its application in watchmaking.
The 1950s
Tubogas quickly became a defining aesthetic. Each Serpenti watch was handmade, ensuring that no two examples were identical. Bvlgari’s archives preserve nearly one thousand sketches from this period, a remarkable figure considering that the brand had no in-house watch manufacture at the time.
Movements were sourced from leading Swiss houses, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Piaget and later Movado. These were manually wound mechanical calibres, and Bvlgari openly acknowledged its partners through dual branding on the dials.
By the mid-1950s, Serpenti designs evolved towards greater naturalism. The serpent’s head became more sculptural, often concealing the dial beneath a hinged cover.
The 1960s
The cultural status of Serpenti was sealed during the filming of Cleopatra at Cinecittà studios in Rome. Elizabeth Taylor, starring in the title role, became closely associated with Bvlgari during this period. In promotional material filmed on set, she appeared wearing gem-set Serpenti watches, a choice rich in symbolism given Cleopatra’s historical association with serpents.
Public fascination was further amplified by Taylor’s highly publicised relationship with Richard Burton, both of whom famously acquired extravagant Bvlgari jewellery during this era.
Design-wise, Serpenti became increasingly elaborate. Bracelet scales were engraved for realism, set with gemstones or covered in vibrant enamel. In enamelled examples, each scale was individually fired before being assembled with miniature screws, an extraordinary feat of craftsmanship.
Serpents dominated fashion culture throughout the decade. In 1968, Diana Vreeland championed snake jewellery in Vogue, while iconic imagery by Gian Paolo Barbieri featuring Benedetta Barzini elevated Serpenti to a symbol of ultimate luxury.
The 1970s
As fashion embraced ease and versatility, Serpenti adapted accordingly. Watches were designed not only for evening wear but also for daily use. In 1971, Bvlgari opened its first boutique outside Italy in New York, reinforcing its international ambitions.
This decade also saw the introduction of bi-metal Tubogas bracelets combining gold and steel. Technically demanding and more costly than pure gold versions, these pieces expanded Serpenti’s visual language.
In 1978, Bvlgari ended its reliance on external movement suppliers and opened its own manufacture in Geneva under the name Bulgari Time, Write and Light. Alongside watches, the facility produced luxury writing instruments and lighters, marking a decisive step towards vertical integration.
The 1980s and 1990s
The 1980s introduced a hybrid design combining the Tubogas bracelet with the iconic Bulgari Bulgari case. Produced in various gold alloys and multi-coil configurations, this version remained in production for nearly three decades.
Steel gained a permanent foothold within the collection during the 1990s, further broadening its appeal.
The 21st Century
From the late 2000s onward, Serpenti entered a period of constant reinterpretation.
In 2009, for the brand’s 125th anniversary, Bvlgari unveiled a more geometric Serpenti with a triangular head and sculptural bracelet scales. A year later, Tubogas was reimagined as an integrated construction with a tapered bracelet and softened case geometry.
This rose gold version was reportedly gifted by Paolo Bulgari to Elizabeth Taylor, adding a final chapter to their long association.
Subsequent milestones included Serpenti Spiga in ceramic, the Ouroboros-inspired Head Over Tail design, and Serpenti Incantati, which reintroduced mechanical movements, including a tourbillon, after several decades dominated by quartz calibres.
Younger audiences were addressed through Serpenti Twist, while Serpenti Seduttori introduced a rigid bracelet and bold cabochon crown, shifting emphasis towards graphic scale articulation.
In 2020, Seduttori Tourbillon models demonstrated Bvlgari’s technical ambitions within a traditionally jewellery-focused line.
More recent expressions include Serpenti Pallini, unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2024, featuring articulated gold beads and the smallest movement ever produced by the Bvlgari manufacture.
In 2025, the collection took two radical directions. A collaboration with MB&F reimagined Serpenti through avant-garde horology, while Serpenti Aeterna offered a fixed bracelet design with sharply faceted geometry and full diamond setting.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
A Living Icon
Serpenti celebrated its seventy-fifth anniversary recently, standing as one of the longest continuously evolving collections in Swiss watchmaking. Its enduring relevance lies in Bvlgari’s ability to reinterpret a powerful symbol without diluting its identity.
Among the many meanings associated with the serpent, longevity remains the most fitting. Judging by its constant reinvention, Serpenti shows no sign of shedding its skin for the last time.
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