The 2025 Watch Year in Review: Smaller Cases, Shorter Lists, and Rolex’s Big Surprise
2025 was the year the watch industry finally slowed down and focused on what really matters: great designs, easier access for buyers, and a lot of creative risks. While the wild "hype" prices of the last few years continued to cool off, the actual watches we saw were some of the most exciting in a decade.
Whether you're saving for your first luxury piece or just love a good microbrand, here is the ultimate roundup of everything that happened in the watch world this year.
1. The Biggest Release: The Rolex Land-Dweller
The watch world’s biggest surprise came from Rolex with the launch of the Land-Dweller. For the first time in ages, Rolex gave us a brand-new model name that feels as classic as the Submariner but looks totally modern.
-
The Details: It comes in 36mm and 40mm sizes and features a unique "honeycomb" dial that catches the light.
-
The Twist: It has a clear "exhibition" caseback (you can see the engine!) and a new integrated bracelet called the "Flat Jubilee".
-
Why it Matters: It’s Rolex showing they can still innovate while keeping that rugged, luxury feel we all love.
2. The Heavy Hitters: Patek & Breguet Take the Crown
If 2025 had "MVP" awards, they would go to.
Patek Philippe’s New Classic: The Calatrava 6196P arrived with a beautiful salmon dial and a slim platinum case. Collectors are calling it one of the best-looking dress watches Patek has made in years.
Breguet’s Big Win: To celebrate their 250th anniversary, Breguet released the Classique Souscription 2025. It was so well-received that it won the "Aiguille d’Or", the top prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (the Oscars of watches).
3. Great News for Buyers: Shorter Waitlists
The best news for the everyday collector in 2025 was that it actually became easier to buy a watch.
-
Rolex Availability: Rolex relaxed their rules on "Exhibition Only" watches, meaning more dealers had stock you could actually buy on the spot. Wait times for a Submariner dropped from six months down to about 60 days in many places.
-
Secondary Market: Prices for pre-owned watches from brands like Omega, IWC, and Tudor became much more affordable, often selling for 30-40% below their original retail price.
4. Small is the New Big
The trend of massive, chunky watches is officially over. In 2025, the "sweet spot" was 36mm to 38mm. Brands like Cartier became a massive favorite this year, especially with the return of the Tank à Guichet, a classic "digital" window watch that defines silent luxury. Even rugged brands like Panerai made their new Luminor models thinner and lighter to fit better under a shirt cuff.
5. The Microbrand Heroes
You didn't need to spend five figures to get a great watch in 2025. Microbrands and "challenger" brands stole the spotlight.
-
Christopher Ward: Their C12 Loco won "Best Challenger Watch" for offering high-end features at a fraction of the usual price.
-
Dennison: This revived British brand shocked everyone by winning a major GPHG award for their watches featuring natural stone dials like Tiger Eye.
-
Oris x Miss Piggy: Oris reminded us that watches should be fun with their bright pink "Miss Piggy" ProPilot, which became an instant hit for its playful personality.
6. The $17.6 Million Dream
Just to keep things interesting, the auction world still saw some mind-blowing numbers. A vintage 1943 Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in steel sold for a record-breaking $17.6 million. Meanwhile, a unique watch owned by director Francis Ford Coppola (the F.P. Journe FFC Prototype) sold for over $10 million.
Final Verdict: 2025 was a great year to be a watch lover. Whether you want the latest Rolex, a slim Cartier, or a fun microbrand, there has never been more variety or better quality available on the market.
