Barrington’s Monthly Watch Roundup: January 2026

January 2026 arrived with a distinct shift in tone for the luxury watch market. Following the speculative "hype" years, the first month of the year signaled a return to horological substance and archival depth. With LVMH Watch Week taking over Milan and significant movements at the retail level from the industry's heavyweights, January has provided a clear roadmap for the year ahead.

Here are the five most significant developments for the discerning collector.

1. The Heritage "Glassbox": TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer

Image source: monochrome-watches.com

TAG Heuer stole the limelight at LVMH Watch Week by reaching into its mid-century archives for the Carrera Seafarer. A nod to the legendary 1940s collaboration with Abercrombie & Fitch, this modern iteration utilizes the celebrated "Glassbox" architecture. It replaces the standard chronograph layout with a dedicated tidal complication, controlled by a "TIDE" pusher at 9 o'clock. With a champagne-opaline dial accented by "Intrepid Teal," it is a masterclass in how to modernize a tool-watch legend for the contemporary wrist.

2. Market Movement: The "January 1st" Rolex Adjustment

In what has become a sobering New Year’s tradition, Rolex implemented its 2026 retail price adjustment on 1 January. While stainless steel models saw a relatively restrained rise of 1–3%, the brand’s "all-gold" references bore the brunt of the increase, climbing by as much as 14% in some markets. Driven by record gold prices, this move further separates the professional steel range from the high-prestige precious metal pieces, reinforcing Rolex’s strategy of aggressive exclusivity.

3. Iconic Evolution: The Omega Speedmaster "Inverted Moon"

Image source: monochrome-watches.com

Omega has proven that even an untouchable icon like the Speedmaster Professional has room to evolve. January saw the release of a striking new Moonwatch duo featuring "inverted" black and white dials. The contrast-heavy layout, available in both classic steel and 18K Moonshine Gold, offers a contemporary sharpness to the Moonwatch DNA. Powered by the Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, these pieces bridge the gap between historic space heritage and modern aesthetic demand.

4. High-Watchmaking Transparency: Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton

Zenith continues to move the Defy collection into more rarefied air. The debut of the Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton in Milan showcased a new level of mechanical theater. Stripped of a traditional dial, the watch places the high-frequency tourbillon at 6 o'clock within a geometric, skeletonized framework. Rendered in rose gold and black ceramic, it is an unapologetically modern piece of haute horology that targets collectors looking for technical complexity without the "vintage" baggage.

5. Corporate Restructuring: Richemont Divests Baume & Mercier

In a major industry shakeup on 22 January, Richemont announced the sale of Baume & Mercier to the Italian Damiani Group. After decades under the Richemont umbrella, the nearly 200-year-old Swiss maison will now lead Damiani’s watchmaking portfolio. For the collector, this marks a potential turning point for the brand; as Damiani prepares to open mono-brand boutiques, we expect a renewed focus on the Riviera and Clifton lines, likely moving them away from the "accessible" bracket toward a more specialized luxury positioning.

January 2026 has confirmed that the industry is leaning heavily into its icons, albeit at a higher premium. Whether through technical "Glassbox" revivals or strategic price shifts, the message is clear: the focus has returned to the intrinsic value of the piece on your wrist.