A Retrospective of the "Oscars of Watchmaking": GPHG Winners Over the Years

The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), affectionately known as the "Oscars of Watchmaking," has been the premier platform for celebrating horological excellence since 2001. With its 24th edition concluding on 13 November 2024, the event once again recognised the industry’s finest innovations. This retrospective explores the evolution of the GPHG’s top honour, the "Aiguille d’Or" (Golden Hand), while reflecting on how the competition has shaped the watchmaking world over nearly 25 years.

2024: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar stood out as a marvel of technical mastery and aesthetic perfection. This timepiece, equipped with a 400-year perpetual calendar, rewrites horological history with its moon phase accuracy—deviating by just one day in an astonishing 45,361,055 years. Officially certified by Guinness World Records, it showcases IWC’s dedication to precision and durability, making it an enduring icon of the 21st century.

New Features Introduced in 2024:

• The “Time Only” category debuted, replacing the "Mechanical Clock" category, honouring watches with minimalistic hour and minute displays.

• The “Innovation” category shifted focus to eco-conscious designs, aligning with the industry’s growing sustainability initiatives.

• For the first time, the event was hosted by French actress Carole Bouquet, whose charm and presence added a fresh dynamic to the ceremony.

A Look Back at Iconic GPHG Winners

2001: Vacheron Constantin Lady Kalla

The inaugural “Aiguille d’Or” winner remains the only jewellery watch to secure the top prize. The Lady Kalla, crafted from white gold and adorned with baguette-cut diamonds, blended fine jewellery with horological expertise. Its hidden winding crown on the caseback ensured the design’s seamless elegance.

2005: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Île

This dual-dial masterpiece was created to mark Vacheron Constantin’s 250th anniversary. Featuring 16 complications—including a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater—it was hailed as one of the most complex watches of its time, showcasing the maison’s enduring craftsmanship.

2010: Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30°

Renowned for its innovation, this watch introduced a double tourbillon angled at 30° to improve accuracy. Limited to just 11 pieces, it demonstrated Greubel Forsey’s commitment to blending art with precision engineering.

2019: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultrathin

This ultra-thin perpetual calendar, measuring only 6.3 mm, redefined engineering by compressing a three-layer mechanism into a single plane. Its bold reinterpretation of the Royal Oak silhouette reaffirmed the brand’s dominance in luxury sports watches.

2023: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4

A modern marvel, this watch housed 40 functions in a compact case. Its innovations in acoustic performance elevated minute repeater technology, while its 23 complications showcased unparalleled complexity in a wearable design.

How GPHG Influences the Industry

The GPHG has not only celebrated excellence but also influenced trends and priorities within the watchmaking world:

• Spotlight on Sustainability: The addition of environmentally focused categories highlights the industry’s shift toward sustainable practices, including the use of recycled materials and energy-efficient manufacturing.

• Advancing Craftsmanship: Winners such as F.P. Journe and Breguet have pushed technical boundaries, ensuring traditional craftsmanship evolves in tandem with modern technology.

• Nurturing Innovation: Recognising brands like MB&F and De Bethune has encouraged the growth of independent watchmakers, fostering creativity outside of large conglomerates.

Looking Ahead to 2025: A Silver Jubilee

The 25th anniversary of the GPHG in 2025 promises to be a landmark event. With nearly a quarter-century of history, the competition continues to reflect the spirit of innovation and artistry that defines Swiss watchmaking.

Predicted Trends for 2025:

• Increased focus on smart luxury hybrids, blending traditional craftsmanship with smartwatch functionalities.

• Expansion of eco-friendly collections, incorporating recycled materials and reducing carbon footprints.

• A resurgence in affordable luxury models, targeting younger collectors and emerging markets.

Conclusion

The GPHG remains a beacon of inspiration and excellence in the horological world. From iconic brands like Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe to avant-garde innovators like MB&F, the competition has continually celebrated the fusion of tradition and modernity. As the industry prepares for 2025, the legacy of the GPHG’s “Aiguille d’Or” winners serves as a testament to the endless possibilities in the art of watchmaking.

Stay tuned for an exclusive preview of the 2025 nominees as the GPHG prepares to celebrate 25 years of horological brilliance.