The Bvlgari Story: Merging Jewelry and Watchmaking

Welcome to the Barrington Watch Wine-ders podcast, where we explore the fascinating world of horology, uncovering the stories behind the most iconic watch brands.

Today, we turn our attention to Bvlgari—a name synonymous with Italian luxury, bold design, and technical innovation. While many recognise Bvlgari for its exquisite jewellery, the brand has also carved out a remarkable legacy in watchmaking, blending artistic flair with Swiss precision.

From its beginnings in Rome as a small jewellery boutique to becoming a serious contender in the world of haute horlogerie, Bvlgari’s journey is a testament to craftsmanship, creativity, and the pursuit of excellence.

Join us as we delve into the fascinating evolution of this legendary brand and discover how it transformed from a jeweller with a passion for timepieces into a powerhouse of high-end watchmaking.

From Greece to Rome: The Birth of a Legacy

The story of Bvlgari begins not in Italy, but in the mountainous region of Epirus, Greece. It was here that Sotirios Boulgaris, a talented young silversmith, honed his craft, creating intricate silver ornaments. But seeking greater opportunities, he set out on a journey that would ultimately lead him to the heart of Italy.

Arriving in Rome in 1881, Boulgaris found a city steeped in history, art, and a thriving luxury market—an environment that would serve as the perfect foundation for his vision. Just a few years later, in 1884, he opened his first boutique, a modest yet elegant establishment that combined Greek craftsmanship with Italian artistic sensibilities.

The turning point came in 1905, when Bvlgari moved to Via dei Condotti, one of Rome’s most prestigious shopping streets. This store, now the brand’s iconic flagship, quickly became a gathering place for aristocrats, film stars, and lovers of fine jewellery. Even in those early years, Bvlgari’s distinctive style—merging classical inspirations with modern aesthetics—set it apart, laying the groundwork for a brand that would redefine luxury in the decades to come.

The Evolution of Bvlgari Watches

While Bvlgari built its reputation as a master jeweller, the brand’s foray into watchmaking was no afterthought. It was a natural evolution—one that fused aesthetic brilliance with technical sophistication.

In the 1940s, Bvlgari introduced what would become one of its most iconic creations: the Ser-penti collection. Inspired by the snake, a symbol of eternity and transformation, these watches were unlike anything seen before. Their coiling, flexible bracelet—crafted using the brand’s signature Tubogas technique—seamlessly integrated a watch dial, turning timekeeping into an art form. The Ser-penti watches quickly became a favourite among collectors and celebrities, with Elizabeth Taylor famously wearing one on the set of Cleopatra in 1962.

But Bvlgari’s ambition extended beyond beauty. Over the decades, the brand forged strong partnerships with Swiss horology giants such as JLC, Audemars Pee-gay, and Vacheron Constantin, ensuring that its timepieces weren’t just visually striking but also housed exceptional movements. This commitment to technical innovation and mechanical excellence would later propel Bvlgari into the world of haute horlogerie, setting the stage for even greater achievements in watchmaking.

The Swiss Expansion: A New Era of Watchmaking

By the 1980s, Bvlgari had already established itself as a jeweller with an exceptional eye for design, but the brand sought more than aesthetic brilliance—it wanted to compete at the highest levels of watchmaking. To achieve this, Bvlgari Time was founded in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, marking the brand’s serious commitment to haute horlogerie.

This move transformed Bvlgari from a jeweller that made watches into a true watchmaker with in-house expertise. The brand no longer relied solely on external movements but instead began developing its own high-precision calibres, blending Italian artistry with Swiss technical mastery.

A defining moment came in the 2000s when Bvlgari acquired two of the most respected names in independent Swiss watchmaking: Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta. These acquisitions gave Bvlgari access to some of the most advanced complications in the industry, from high-end chronographs to minute repeaters and toor-bee-yons.

Today, Bvlgari stands at the forefront of innovation, producing in-house movements that challenge the traditional Swiss heavyweights. The Octo Finissimo collection, in particular, has broken multiple records for ultra-thin complications, proving that Bvlgari is not just about design—it is a serious force in mechanical watchmaking excellence.

Bvlgari’s Impact on Modern Watchmaking

Bvlgari has mastered the art of combining Italian creativity with Swiss precision, setting itself apart in the world of haute horlogerie. The brand’s timepieces are not just about aesthetics—they are feats of technical ingenuity that challenge industry norms while remaining unmistakably Bvlgari.

A defining chapter in Bvlgari’s modern watchmaking success came with the launch of the Octo Finissimo collection in the 2010s. This avant-garde line redefined ultra-thin watchmaking, breaking multiple world records for slimness and mechanical innovation. From the thinnest automatic movement to the thinnest toor-bee-yons and chronograph, Octo Finissimo shattered expectations, proving that Bvlgari could push the boundaries of engineering just as boldly as it did with design.

Today, as part of the LVMH Group, Bvlgari continues to evolve, blending luxury, craftsmanship, and cutting-edge technology. With its in-house manufacturing capabilities and relentless pursuit of innovation, the brand has solidified its place among the elite of Swiss watchmaking. Whether through architectural case designs, record-breaking complications, or its signature fusion of jewellery and horology, Bvlgari remains a brand that dares to redefine the art of timekeeping.

Conclusion

From a small silversmith’s workshop in Rome to a dominant force in Swiss watchmaking, Bvlgari has redefined what luxury timepieces can be. The brand’s journey is one of bold creativity, technical mastery, and relentless innovation—a seamless fusion of Italian artistry and Swiss precision.

By embracing both heritage and modernity, Bvlgari has cemented its place among the world’s top watchmakers. Whether through the timeless elegance of Ser-penti, the cutting-edge engineering of Octo Finissimo, or its pioneering spirit in ultra-thin complications, Bvlgari continues to push the boundaries of horology.

Thank you for joining us on this exploration of Bvlgari’s remarkable watchmaking legacy. Be sure to stay tuned for more captivating stories from the world of fine timepieces, right here on the Barrington Watch Wine-ders podcast.