What is Polishing?

In the world of fine watchmaking, polishing is more than a mere cosmetic treatment. It is an art form rooted in precision, craftsmanship, and respect for the integrity of the timepiece. The process of polishing a watch case or bracelet serves to restore its original lustre, eliminate scratches, and revive the appearance that may have faded through years of wear. However, it is also one of the most delicate and controversial procedures in horology, as improper or excessive polishing can permanently alter the character, geometry, and even the value of a watch.

The Purpose of Polishing

Polishing is typically performed for two reasons: aesthetic restoration and protection. Over time, a watch accumulates fine scratches, nicks, and dull areas known as micro-abrasions, often referred to by collectors as “swirl marks.” These imperfections develop naturally as the watch comes into contact with everyday surfaces. While some collectors view these marks as a testament to a watch’s history, others prefer to maintain a pristine appearance.

Beyond aesthetics, polishing can also play a functional role. By removing oxidation and surface contaminants, it helps preserve the metal’s integrity, especially in cases made of softer materials such as gold or bronze. In steel watches, it prevents corrosion from developing in minute scratches where moisture and debris may accumulate.

Understanding the Structure of a Watch Case

To fully appreciate the complexity of polishing, it is essential to understand the construction of a watch case and bracelet. Most modern watches are crafted from stainless steel, titanium, or precious metals like gold and platinum. Each material has unique properties that influence how it responds to polishing. Stainless steel, for example, is relatively hard and resilient, while gold is soft and malleable, requiring a gentler touch.

A watch case consists of multiple surfaces, each finished in a specific way: some are mirror-polished, others are brushed, satin-finished, or bead-blasted. These finishes are carefully designed to create contrast and harmony in the design. Restoring them correctly demands a deep understanding of the original manufacturer’s techniques.

The Process of Polishing

Polishing is a multi-stage process that begins with a thorough inspection of the watch. A skilled polisher assesses the condition of the surfaces, the depth of the scratches, and the geometry of the case and bracelet. The aim is not simply to remove material but to do so in a controlled manner that preserves the sharpness of edges, the symmetry of lugs, and the original proportions.

The process typically unfolds as follows:

1. Preparation and disassembly: The watch is carefully disassembled, separating the case, bracelet, and any removable parts. The movement, crystal, bezel insert, and gaskets are removed to prevent damage from heat or debris.

2. Cleaning and inspection: The components are cleaned ultrasonically to remove dirt, oils, and residues. The polisher inspects the surfaces under magnification to determine the appropriate tools and abrasives.

3. Initial surface correction: Deep scratches are reduced using fine abrasives or lapping wheels. This step requires caution, as excessive pressure or incorrect angles can distort the geometry.

4. Brushing and satin finishing: Areas with a brushed or satin finish are treated with specialised wheels, pads, or abrasive tapes to restore the original grain pattern. The direction of the brushing must be consistent and uniform.

5. Mirror polishing: Highly polished surfaces, such as case flanks or bezel tops, are worked on with progressively finer compounds until a mirror-like shine is achieved.

6. Final cleaning and reassembly: After the desired finish is achieved, the components are meticulously cleaned to remove any polishing residue. The watch is then reassembled, lubricated, and tested for water resistance and performance.

Manual versus Machine Polishing

Polishing can be performed by hand or with the aid of machinery, but the highest level of craftsmanship always involves a combination of both. Manual polishing allows for precision and control, particularly in delicate areas such as lug bevels or edges. Machine-assisted polishing, on the other hand, provides uniform pressure and speed, useful for larger surfaces like bracelets or case backs.

Luxury watch manufacturers often employ specialised artisans whose sole responsibility is to polish cases and bracelets to perfection. Brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Grand Seiko have developed proprietary polishing techniques, like the renowned Zaratsu polishing used by Seiko, which produces an exceptionally flat, distortion-free mirror surface.

The Risks of Overpolishing

One of the greatest dangers in watch restoration is overpolishing. Each time a watch is polished, a minute layer of metal is removed. Repeated treatments can round off sharp case lines, blur chamfers, and distort the original shape. This loss of definition is particularly damaging for vintage watches, where crisp lines and factory finishes are crucial to authenticity and value.

Collectors often describe overpolished watches as “soft” or “melted” in appearance. For instance, the once sharp edges of a Rolex Submariner’s lugs may become rounded, or the bevels on an Omega Speedmaster’s case may disappear entirely. Such alterations can significantly reduce a watch’s desirability among purists and may even lower its market value.

Different Finishes and Techniques

A skilled polisher must master a range of surface finishes, each requiring specific tools and techniques. The most common include:

1. High polish (mirror finish) – Achieved using fine compounds and felt or cotton wheels, this creates a reflective, flawless surface that accentuates the luxury of the metal.

2. Brushed or satin finish – Produced by dragging abrasive pads or belts in a uniform direction, creating a soft, matte effect. It is often used on sports watches for a more utilitarian aesthetic.

3. Bead-blasted finish – Achieved by projecting fine particles onto the metal, resulting in a granular texture with reduced reflectivity.

4. Combination finishes – Many high-end watches combine polished and brushed surfaces, demanding exceptional precision to maintain sharp transitions between them.

Polishing Precious Metals

When working with gold, platinum, or other precious alloys, polishing requires even greater care. Gold’s softness makes it easy to distort or remove too much material, while platinum’s density demands longer polishing times and higher pressure. Restoring the original finish on these materials involves a balance between removing imperfections and maintaining the metal’s natural depth and warmth.

The Debate Among Collectors

In the vintage watch community, polishing remains a divisive subject. Many enthusiasts prefer unpolished watches that retain their original factory lines, even if they show signs of wear. They see these marks as a form of patina, evidence of authenticity and history. Others argue that a sympathetic polish, performed by an expert, can breathe new life into a timepiece without compromising its integrity.

Ultimately, the decision to polish is a personal one. It depends on the watch’s age, value, intended use, and the owner’s aesthetic preference. Some collectors keep their vintage pieces untouched, while others choose to have modern watches regularly refinished to maintain a fresh appearance.

Professional Versus DIY Polishing

While there are polishing kits available for enthusiasts, it is generally advised to leave the process to professionals. A trained watchmaker or case refinisher has the necessary tools, experience, and understanding of geometry to perform the task correctly. Home polishing, even with the best intentions, can lead to irreversible damage. A single misstep with an abrasive compound or polishing wheel can alter the case shape or remove too much material.

Preserving a Watch After Polishing

After a professional polishing, proper care can help maintain the finish for years. Regular cleaning with a soft cloth, avoiding contact with abrasive surfaces, and removing the watch during heavy manual activities are all effective measures. For those who appreciate a more natural evolution of their watch’s appearance, light wear and ageing can be allowed to occur organically.

Conclusion

Polishing is one of the most nuanced disciplines in watch restoration. When executed with precision and restraint, it can restore the brilliance of a watch without compromising its design or heritage. However, when done carelessly or excessively, it can erase the very details that define its character.

A true master of polishing understands that perfection lies not in removing every imperfection, but in enhancing the watch’s natural beauty while preserving its essence. Whether the goal is to rejuvenate a treasured heirloom or simply maintain a daily companion, polishing remains a vital art in the preservation of horological excellence.