Vacheron Constantin Expands the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Line
Vacheron Constantin enriches its Traditionnelle collection with new ultra thin perpetual calendar models that aim to appeal across traditional gender boundaries. These compact watches can be viewed either as understated dress pieces or as refined accessories suited to collectors who prefer smaller, elegant proportions. The move reflects a broader trend within haute horlogerie, where distinctions between men’s and women’s watches are gradually becoming less rigid.
The concept was first explored in 2022 when Vacheron Constantin launched smaller perpetual calendar models primarily positioned as women’s pieces, complete with mother of pearl dials and diamond settings. The latest releases adopt the same dimensions yet shift towards a more neutral aesthetic language.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
Historical Roots of the Calibre 1120 QP
At the heart of the new references lies the calibre 1120 QP, an ultra thin automatic movement that occupies an important place in the history of complicated watchmaking. It made its debut in 1983 in the celebrated reference 43031, a model often credited with helping reignite interest in mechanical high complications following the quartz crisis. The calibre is based on the Jaeger LeCoultre 920, one of the most respected thin automatic movements ever created. Variants of the 920 have powered the original Vacheron Constantin 222, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402, underscoring its influence across multiple maisons.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
Classical Proportions and a Heritage Inspired Layout
Reference 43031 remained in production for nearly twenty years, and its proportions serve as a template for the new models. The case now measures 36.5 millimetres in diameter and 8.43 millimetres in height, preserving the sense of discreet refinement that characterised the earlier piece. The design adheres closely to the Traditionnelle codes. Features include a round case, straight lugs, a thin polished bezel and an overall profile that sits low on the wrist.
The display is equally faithful to tradition. The silver toned dial follows the organisation established by the 43031. At twelve o’clock a single subdial combines the month and leap year indications. Across the horizontal axis sit the date and day of the week registers. A moon phase and age of the moon indicator occupies the space at six o’clock. This configuration delivers a balanced presentation of information despite the compact format.
Gold hands are used for each of the calendar indications. They coordinate with the dauphine style hour and minute hands as well as with the applied baton hour markers. A railway minute track frames the dial and reinforces the classical tone of the model.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
The Calibre 1120 QP in Detail
Comprising 276 components, the calibre 1120 QP stands only 4.05 millimetres tall. It operates at 19800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately forty hours. The movement holds the Geneva Seal and features decoration executed to the standards associated with the hallmark. Geneva stripes appear across the bridges, while the openworked rotor incorporates the Maltese cross, the enduring emblem of Vacheron Constantin.
Despite the volume of information displayed, the watches retain a clean and legible appearance. This clarity results from the careful proportions of each register and the inherent symmetry of the perpetual calendar layout.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
Materials, Variants and Pricing
The new models are presented in cases of pink gold or white gold. The pink gold version is paired with a blue alligator leather strap, while the white gold edition features a light brown alligator strap. Both combinations reinforce the understated elegance of the design.
A further variation is offered in white gold with diamonds set on the bezel, lugs and crown. This model is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap and adds a more expressive option within the line.
Indicative pricing stands at one hundred thousand dollars for the two non gem set versions and one hundred and two thousand dollars for the diamond set model.
