Rare ‘Dirty Dozen’ and ‘Fab Four’ Military Watches to Go Up for Auction
Three notable examples of the legendary Second World War “Dirty Dozen” military wristwatches are set to be auctioned on Wednesday, October 1, as part of a two-day Jewellery, Watches and Accessories sale at Gildings Auctioneers in Market Harborough. The single-owner collection, built by a Northampton-based enthusiast, also includes a rare Hamilton “Fab Four” chronograph and several other British military watches.
The Dirty Dozen: Icons of Wartime Watchmaking
Commissioned in 1944 and 1945 by the British Ministry of Defence, the “Dirty Dozen” were created by 12 Swiss manufacturers to strict military specifications. Designed with black dials, luminous markers, and waterproof cases, they provided soldiers with reliable and durable timekeeping on the battlefield.
The three examples at auction include Timor and Cyma models, each estimated at £400–£600, and a Buren Grand Prix, guided at £200–£300. All are stamped “W.W.W.” to denote the official specification, Watch, Wrist, Waterproof. While these pieces are not the rarest within the series, their survival through wartime conditions makes them highly collectible.
The Hamilton ‘Fab Four’ Chronograph
Another highlight is the Hamilton “Fab Four” chronograph, produced around 1970 when four manufacturers were tasked with supplying chronographs to the British military. Bearing the “0552” stamp of the Royal Navy, this model is one of only around 3,000 believed to have been made. It carries a guide price of £800–£1,200, reflecting both its scarcity and its enduring appeal among military watch enthusiasts.
Additional Military and Collector Watches
Beyond these headline pieces, the auction offers a variety of other military timepieces. Highlights include a 1970s Hamilton W10 estimated at £200–£300, a World War One cockpit watch at £70–£100, and two Army Trade Pattern (ATP) wristwatches from Buren and Moeris with estimates of £80–£120 and £50–£100 respectively. Non-military lots drawing interest include an Enicar Sherpa Super Jet and two Breitling Top Time watches.
The two-day auction begins on Tuesday, September 30, with jewellery, followed by watches and accessories on Wednesday, October 1. Full auction details and viewing times are available on the Gildings Auctioneers website here.
