Chanel Acquires a 25% Stake in Swiss Watchmaker MB&F

Chanel has acquired a 25% stake in the Swiss independent watchmaking brand MB&F, adding another prominent name to its portfolio of watch-related investments. This move brings Chanel's list of holdings to include other well-known horological names such as F.P. Journe, Romain Gauthier, Bell & Ross, and Kenissi, reflecting its continued commitment to the high-end watchmaking sector.

Under the terms of the new agreement, Maximilian Büsser, the founder of MB&F, retains the majority shareholding with 60%, while the share of his partner, Serge Kriknoff, will reduce to 15%. The two will continue to lead the company alongside Charris Yadigaroglou, who serves as Head of Marketing Communications, and Thibault Verdonckt, Head of Sales, ensuring a consistent strategic direction.

MB&F, known for its avant-garde and unconventional timepieces, has emphasized that the involvement of Chanel as a minority shareholder will provide the company with "stability and resilience," as well as a strong strategic partnership. According to MB&F’s statement, this investment aligns the two brands, which share a common philosophy of long-term vision, craftsmanship, and creativity, while also ensuring MB&F's independence in maintaining its unique design ethos.

Maximilian Büsser commented on the partnership, stating, “It was our responsibility, in today’s very favourable context and with our management team in its prime, to take this major step to ensure our long-term future – a natural evolution for a company celebrating its 20th anniversary next year.” He added that the strategic involvement of Chanel will allow MB&F to maintain its independence and benefit from Chanel’s broader ecosystem and network of specialist suppliers, strengthening operations without pressure on growth.

The partnership is also part of Chanel’s broader approach to supporting independent watchmakers. Chanel has been steadily building an influential presence in the haute horlogerie sector since 1987, when it launched its own watchmaking venture with a dedicated studio in Paris. This was followed by its acquisition of G&F Châtelain Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, in 1993. The investment in MB&F mirrors similar strategic partnerships, such as those with Romain Gauthier in 2011 and F.P. Journe in 2018, where Chanel has played a supportive yet non-interfering role, ensuring these brands retain their autonomy.

MB&F, which stands for Maximilian Büsser & Friends, produced 419 watches in 2023, recording revenues of CHF 45.4 million ($53.2 million). The brand is known for its highly artistic and mechanically complex timepieces, appealing to collectors seeking unique and bold designs. MB&F also launched a parallel brand, M.A.D.Editions, in 2021, which focuses on more accessible timepieces, currently producing approximately 3,500 units per year.

Chanel’s minority stake in MB&F marks a significant step towards securing the future of a celebrated independent watch brand while reinforcing Chanel’s ongoing strategy to invest in expertise, innovation, and the preservation of watchmaking craftsmanship. As Chanel put it, the investment reflects its "desire to continue to evolve and invest in the future of high-end watchmaking expertise, creation, and design.