Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar Biretrograde
A revival of classical Roger Dubuis design built around restored and original components
Roger Dubuis marks its thirtieth anniversary in 2025, and to celebrate the milestone the Geneva manufacture has returned to the aesthetics that defined its earliest years. The result is the Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar Biretrograde, a model that reintroduces the classical spirit of the brand using a blend of restored parts and newly produced components.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
A watch rooted in the founder’s heritage
To understand the symbolism behind the new model, it is essential to revisit the career of Roger Dubuis himself. He began as a watchmaker in the 1950s in the after sales department of Longines, where he specialised in restoring vintage chronographs. He later joined Patek Philippe, remaining there for nearly two decades before opening his own atelier in the 1980s. During this period he focused on the restoration of watches and movements for leading maisons, earning a reputation for uncompromising technical skill.
In 1995 he founded his own brand with Carlos Dias, lending his name to the company. The earliest Roger Dubuis watches drew inspiration from mid century Patek Philippe chronographs and were powered by hand wound Lemania movements. These were followed by the distinctive Sympathie models, and by 1999 the manufacture had introduced its first in house calibres.
The launch of the Excalibur collection in 2005 dramatically changed the identity of the brand, establishing the open worked, architectural aesthetic that remains central today. Richemont acquired an initial stake in the company in 2008 and completed the takeover in 2016. Following the passing of Roger Dubuis in 2017, the maison entered a new era defined by its expressive skeletonised creations. The Hommage La Placide returns to the quieter sensibilities of the pre Excalibur period, bringing historic components back to life.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
A tribute embodied in its name
The name La Placide references Roger Dubuis’s childhood nickname, a term evoking calmness and a reserved character. Reflecting this theme, the watch is presented in a classically styled round case crafted from pink gold. The case measures 38 millimetres in diameter and 11 millimetres in height, alternating polished and satin finished surfaces. The design is restrained and intentionally traditional, standing in contrast with the more assertive contours of the brand’s modern collections.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
A dial rich in detail and classical complications
The dial is a blue lacquered plate set with mother of pearl inserts that form the background for the biretrograde displays. Retrograde indications for the date and the day are positioned on each side of the dial, while the month display sits below the twelve o’clock position, combined with a leap year indicator. At six o’clock lies a moon phase display using an aventurine disc and a moon crafted in yellow gold.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
Restored heritage movements brought back to life
The perpetual calendar module RD72 was originally introduced in 1999. Although the technical foundation remains the same, the plate and around half of the components have been newly manufactured. The module is paired with the RD14 base calibre, launched in 2004 as the first self winding movement produced in house by Roger Dubuis. For this anniversary model, existing stocks of RD14 movements underwent complete restoration, quality control and full diagnostic testing.
Among the preserved elements are the swan neck shaped regulator and the balance spring produced by Roger Dubuis. The gear train has been entirely re engineered. The calibre operates at 4 hertz and offers a power reserve of 48 hours. A new gold rotor winds the movement, which is certified under the Geneva Seal and decorated using fifteen traditional finishing techniques.
Source: monochrome-watches.com
Limited series and availability
The Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar Biretrograde is fitted with a blue calfskin leather strap equipped with a triple folding clasp. As is customary for the brand, the model is limited to 28 pieces. The estimated price of the watch is 115,000 euros before taxes, with deliveries expected to begin through authorised retailers and Roger Dubuis boutiques later in the production cycle.
