Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo: Two Gold Watches Celebrate the Brand's 1980 Origins

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How Carlo Crocco Created the Original Hublot in 1980

The origins of Hublot date back to the late 1970s, when Italian entrepreneur Carlo Crocco began developing a watch that combined the elegance of gold with the practicality of a sports model. Rubber straps were already widely used in watchmaking, particularly on affordable sports watches, but pairing rubber with an expensive gold case was highly unusual. Luxury watches were generally associated with leather straps or metal bracelets, making Crocco's proposal a departure from established conventions. His company, MDM Genève, had already developed an elegant gold watch featuring twelve screws, but he wanted to create something more versatile and suitable for everyday wear.

To realise the project, Crocco assembled a team that included Italian designer Francesco Maria Vimercati and Swiss case manufacturer Eric Bonnet. The rubber strap presented a particular challenge because manufacturers of rubber components had limited experience working on luxury watch projects of this complexity. Engineer Guido Gamberini joined the development team and spent approximately two years refining the strap before the watch was ready for production. The resulting construction became one of the most distinctive features of the original Hublot.

The finished watch made its debut at the Basel watch fair in 1980 under the MDM Genève name. Called Hublot, the French word for porthole, it featured a slim 36mm yellow-gold case, a minimalist black dial and a bezel secured by twelve screws. These screws served as the principal visual references around the dial instead of conventional hour markers, while a date window was positioned at 3 o'clock. The integrated black rubber strap was equipped with a concealed double-folding clasp, completing the unusual combination of materials.

The original Hublot used a quartz movement and was designed for everyday wear. Its significance lay primarily in the combination of precious metal and rubber, which challenged established ideas about luxury sports watches. Crocco later recalled that the concept initially puzzled watch industry professionals, who were unfamiliar with such an approach to high-end watch design. Nevertheless, the model gained recognition, and its distinctive appearance became closely associated with the manufacturer. The watch was frequently referred to as La Hublot, and its popularity eventually established Hublot as the brand name.

Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Recreates the Original Design

The Classic Fusion Tributo follows the appearance of the 1980 watch closely, retaining its circular case, minimalist black dial, twelve-screw bezel and integrated rubber strap. Both versions have 38mm gold cases, making them 2mm larger than Crocco's original model. Despite this increase, the new watches maintain the restrained proportions and characteristic appearance of their predecessor. They also feature screw-down crowns that are slightly larger than those fitted to the historical watch.

The twelve screws around the bezel remain an important part of the design, although their appearance has been updated. The new screws have H-shaped profiles, reflecting the design language used in contemporary Hublot collections, while retaining the convex form of the originals. Both models combine precious metals with black rubber, but the case finishing, dial materials and decorative details distinguish the two editions.

Classic Fusion Tributo Yellow Gold

The yellow-gold version is the closer visual interpretation of the original 1980 Hublot. Its case and bezel combine polished and satin-finished surfaces, creating a contrast between reflective and brushed gold. The black lacquered dial has a matt finish, with the MDM inscription printed in gold as a reference to the original company name. A date window remains positioned at 3 o'clock, preserving the familiar layout of the historical model.

The integrated black rubber strap completes the combination of materials that first distinguished Crocco's design. Its understated appearance places the emphasis on the gold case and the contrast between the polished and matt surfaces. Together with the twelve-screw bezel, these elements give the yellow-gold Classic Fusion Tributo a particularly close connection to the watch presented in Basel nearly five decades ago.

Classic Fusion Tributo White Gold

The white-gold edition offers a different interpretation of the same historical design, with predominantly polished case surfaces and twelve titanium bezel screws treated with a dark coating. The contrast between the precious metal and dark screws gives the watch a more contemporary appearance while retaining the characteristic porthole-inspired construction. Unlike the yellow-gold version, this model features a dial made from polished black onyx, providing a glossy surface that distinguishes it from the matt lacquered dial of the other edition. The MDM inscription is rendered in silver to complement the cooler colour of the case.

Despite these differences, the white-gold model retains the same 38mm proportions, date display and integrated black rubber strap. The polished onyx dial and dark-coated screws are its most distinctive visual elements, creating a contrast with the bright surfaces of the white-gold case. Both versions therefore share the same historical inspiration while offering different interpretations of the original design.

Zenith HUB1711 Automatic Movement Replaces the Original Quartz Calibre

One of the principal differences between the Classic Fusion Tributo and its 1980 predecessor is the movement. While the original Hublot was quartz-powered, both new models use the automatic HUB1711 calibre, based on the Zenith Elite 670. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, equivalent to 4Hz. Its inclusion represents a significant mechanical change while allowing the watches to retain the external appearance of Crocco's original design.

The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, allowing the wearer to observe its construction and automatic winding rotor. Hublot has differentiated the two versions through the materials used for these rotors, with the yellow-gold model featuring a 22-carat gold rotor and the white-gold edition using black tungsten. Both incorporate an openworked construction with an H-shaped element, reflecting the manufacturer's contemporary identity. The use of a Zenith-based calibre also connects two Swiss watchmakers belonging to the LVMH group.

The principal specifications of the two Classic Fusion Tributo models are summarised below.

Another design decision concerns the strap attachment system. Hublot chose not to incorporate its One Click quick-change mechanism, preserving a construction closer to that of the original 1980 watch. The integrated rubber strap remains an essential part of the Classic Fusion Tributo's appearance, just as it was on Crocco's first model. This approach allows the manufacturer to maintain the historical character of the design without introducing a feature absent from the original.

Carlo Crocco's Involvement and Hublot's Charitable Contribution

Carlo Crocco participated in the development of the Classic Fusion Tributo as a consultant, helping Hublot recreate the character of the original model. His involvement is particularly significant because the new watches revisit the design decisions that established the manufacturer's identity nearly five decades ago. The project combines the original concept of pairing gold with rubber and a contemporary mechanical movement, connecting Hublot's early history with its current watchmaking capabilities.

Crocco stepped away from the company in 2008, when Hublot was acquired by LVMH. Since then, he has devoted considerable attention to charitable activities, particularly through the Main dans la Main foundation, which he established in 1998. The organisation's name translates from French as Hand in Hand, and its activities focus on humanitarian and educational initiatives supporting children and communities requiring assistance. His work with the foundation has become an important part of his activities outside the watch industry.

The MDM inscription on the new watches also carries a second meaning, referring to Crocco's Main dans la Main foundation as well as the original MDM Genève name. To recognise his contribution to Hublot's history, the manufacturer will donate CHF 100,000 to the foundation. The contribution connects the Classic Fusion Tributo launch with Crocco's charitable work, giving the project a personal significance beyond the recreation of a historical watch.

Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Price and Availability

The Classic Fusion Tributo collection consists of two versions, one in yellow gold and the other in white gold. Neither model has been announced as a limited edition, distinguishing the launch from the numbered collector's editions often associated with commemorative luxury watches. Both versions carry an indicative price of approximately €30,200 or $30,900, depending on the market. Their principal differences concern case materials, dial finishes, bezel details and winding rotors, while their dimensions and movement architecture remain the same.

The yellow-gold edition offers the closest visual connection to Carlo Crocco's 1980 creation, particularly through its combination of gold, a matt black dial and a rubber strap. The white-gold version retains the same historical references while introducing polished black onyx and darker bezel details. Both watches preserve the original concept without attempting to reproduce every technical detail of a model developed more than four decades ago.

Nearly five decades after the first Hublot appeared at Basel, the Classic Fusion Tributo demonstrates how closely the brand's current identity remains connected to its original design. By preserving the combination of gold and rubber while replacing quartz technology with an automatic Zenith movement, Hublot has created a modern interpretation of the watch that started its history. The involvement of Carlo Crocco and the contribution to his charitable foundation make the release a tribute not only to an influential watch design but also to the person who created it.