Historic Rolex Oyster Linked to Mercedes Gleitze Sells for 1.73 Million Dollars at Sotheby’s

Source: www.sothebys.com

A watch tied to a milestone in Rolex history

Mercedes Gleitze is remembered as the first British woman to complete a successful swim across the English Channel in October 1927. Her achievement coincided with Rolex’s early experiments with hermetically sealed wristwatches. For the brand, waterproof integrity became a defining theme, and Gleitze’s endurance swims offered the perfect setting to demonstrate the capabilities of the newly introduced Rolex Oyster.

Soon after her historic Channel crossing, Gleitze attempted a highly publicised repeat swim in order to dispel doubts raised by sceptics. During this attempt she wore a Rolex Oyster around her neck, exposing the watch to cold water and prolonged immersion. Although she did not complete the second crossing, the watch functioned without failure. This moment became central to the brand’s early identity, forming the basis of the first major Rolex advertising campaign devoted to waterproof reliability. The association with Gleitze elevated the Oyster to one of the most important products in the history of modern watchmaking.

Source: www.sothebys.com

The auction result

The example sold at Sotheby’s is a 27 mm gold Rolex Oyster from the period and is understood to have been owned by Gleitze herself. It appeared on the open market for the first time in 25 years. The last time it was sold, it changed hands for 17,037 euros, purchased directly from a descendant of Gleitze.

At the 2024 auction the watch attracted considerable interest, ultimately selling to a private collector from Asia after competition from three other bidders. Given the significance of the model, the price achieved reflects both its historical value and the scarcity of verified early Oysters linked to documented events in the brand’s evolution.

Rarity and historical context

Early Rolex Oysters of the 1920s are rare in any configuration, but examples with confirmed provenance connected to notable milestones are exceptionally uncommon. Gleitze occupies a special place in Rolex history as the athlete whose endurance swimming offered real world proof of the company’s new waterproof case. Her association with the Oyster provided tangible demonstration for one of the most important innovations of the twentieth century in watch design.

The sale of this piece therefore represents far more than the transaction of an antique wristwatch. It encapsulates a pivotal moment in the development of Rolex as a manufacturer and the broader transition of wristwatches from fragile instruments to dependable personal tools capable of withstanding challenging environments.

A meaningful result for collectors and historians

The record price achieved by the Gleitze Oyster reinforces the strong collector interest in early Rolex artefacts, especially those connected to verifiable historical achievements. As the first generation of waterproof wristwatches continues to gain recognition for its role in shaping sport, exploration and modern timekeeping, pieces with documented stories are becoming increasingly sought after by institutions and private collectors alike.

This sale demonstrates that the legacy of Mercedes Gleitze and the early Rolex Oyster remains influential almost a century after the events that first linked athlete and watch. It also highlights the growing appreciation for important objects that capture defining chapters in the evolution of Swiss watchmaking.