Yves Saint Laurent’s Cartier Santos-Dumont Sells for €66,000 at Sotheby’s Auction
A Cartier Santos-Dumont timepiece once owned by legendary fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent has been sold for €66,000 at Sotheby’s, achieving more than ten times its pre-auction estimate of €6,000 – €8,000.
The watch was part of a week-long Sotheby’s auction dedicated to the personal belongings of Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent’s lifelong business partner and a renowned patron of the arts. The sale attracted collectors interested in both historically significant timepieces and fashion heritage memorabilia.
A Timepiece with Haute Couture Legacy
The auctioned watch, a Cartier Santos-Dumont Ref. 78097, dates back to approximately 1970 and is crafted from 18-carat yellow gold.
🔹 The watch was famously worn by Yves Saint Laurent in a 1971 Vogue photoshoot captured by renowned photographer Horst P. Horst, a key moment that linked the timepiece to haute couture history.
🔹 The caseback bears the engraving "Cartier Paris", a hallmark of vintage Cartier pieces.
🔹 It features a manual-winding movement, based on the ETA 2512 calibre, known for its slim profile and reliability.
The Cartier Santos-Dumont is one of the maison’s most iconic designs, originally created in 1904 for Alberto Santos-Dumont, the pioneering Brazilian aviator. With its elegant square case and minimalist sophistication, it remains a favourite among collectors.
Achieving a Final Price Far Exceeding Estimates
With an initial estimate of €6,000 – €8,000, the watch ultimately sold for €66,000, underscoring the strong demand for timepieces with historical provenance.
Several factors contributed to the strong result:
✔️ Yves Saint Laurent’s Legacy – As one of the most influential designers of the 20th century, any object associated with him holds deep cultural and collector appeal.
✔️ Strong Demand for Historically Significant Cartier Timepieces – Vintage Cartier watches, particularly those with provenance, have gained increasing attention among collectors.
✔️ A Connection to Fashion History – Timepieces owned by designers and artists often command premium prices due to their broader cultural significance.
This sale further highlights the ongoing appreciation for Cartier’s heritage models, particularly those linked to iconic figures in fashion and the arts.
Cartier: A Watchmaker with a Rich Cultural Legacy
Cartier has long been associated with timeless elegance and cultural prestige. From Andy Warhol, who famously wore a Cartier Tank, to Princess Diana and Jackie Kennedy, whose Cartier timepieces remain legendary, the brand’s influence extends far beyond horology.
The sale of Yves Saint Laurent’s Cartier Santos-Dumont reinforces the increasing interest in vintage Cartier watches with storied backgrounds. Given the rising collector demand for timepieces with historical significance, this trend is expected to continue.
With Cartier’s enduring dominance in both haute horlogerie and fashion history, collectors and enthusiasts alike will be watching to see which Cartier timepieces with legendary provenance appear at future auctions.