A Timeless Feat: Why the 1927 Rolex Worn by Channel Swimmer Mercedes Gleitze Could Fetch $1.3 Million
The historic Rolex Oyster worn by Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to swim the English Channel, is scheduled to appear at Sotheby’s Important Watches Live Sale in Geneva on Sunday, November 9, 2025; estimates suggest the timepiece could sell for up to $1.3 million (in excess of 1 Million CHF). This vintage watch is a foundational piece in the histories of both competitive endurance and modern watchmaking.
Gleitze originally completed her successful crossing on October 7, 1927, navigating the route from France to the English coast in 15 hours and 15 minutes. However, her record was challenged shortly after by a rival's false claim; Gleitze promptly agreed to defend her title with a second attempt, known as the "vindication swim," on October 21. Rolex capitalized on this public event to test their newly patented waterproof Oyster, asking Gleitze to wear the watch, which she secured around her neck.
The Ultimate Waterproof Test
Although Gleitze had to abandon the second crossing after over ten hours due to severe cold and poor conditions, the watch itself performed perfectly. Her original record was ultimately upheld by the Channel Swimming Association, cementing her place as the first Englishwoman to achieve the feat. The watch’s successful performance during the swim provided Rolex with an immediate and public demonstration of its durability. Gleitze later confirmed that the Rolex Oyster had proven to be a "reliable and accurate timekeeping companion," having been fully immersed for 10 hours and 24 minutes in cold seawater. She specifically noted that the sustained buffeting and the quick temperature change when she was pulled from the water did not affect the movement. This public validation helped cement the brand's reputation for making durable tool watches.
A Revolution in Watchmaking
The Oyster, released in 1926, was a pivotal innovation that offered a replacement for the delicate pocket watches common at the time. Rolex founders Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis worked for more than a decade to create a truly waterproof, shockproof, and dustproof wristwatch. They filed and acquired a series of patents between 1922 and 1925 for both a fully sealed case and a screw-down crown system. The specific 9-karat gold example worn by Gleitze is particularly rare; it is believed to have been made in late 1926, preceding the patent for the winding crown obtained in early 1927. The watch features a 27 mm octagonal case with wire lugs, a milled bezel, and a screw-down crown. It is further distinguished by a unique engraving on the caseback that reads: "Miss M. Gleitze. The Companion ‘Oyster.’ Vindication Channel Swim. October 21st. 1927.".
Enduring Legacy and Valuation
The successful use of the Oyster during the "vindication swim" quickly formed the basis for Rolex’s initial promotional campaign, in which they referred to Gleitze as a "testimonee". This strategic move established a blueprint for the brand ambassadorship model that Rolex continues to employ today. The auction house notes that the 1927 event marked a turning point, permanently aligning Rolex with the pursuits of professionals and adventurers.
Sam Hines, Sotheby’s Global Chairman, Watches, confirms that the Oyster was instrumental in the transition from pocket to wristwatches, rendering the Mercedes Gleitze watch "one of the most significant wristwatches still in private hands". This watch is considered highly significant because of its role in the transition from pocket to wristwatches and its clear link to real-world performance validation. Its extreme rarity, combined with a clear and unbroken chain of custody, this is the first time the timepiece has been offered at auction in 25 years, drives the high valuation.
