Barrington’s Monthly Watch Roundup: November 2025
November 2025 will likely be remembered as the month the industry held its breath for Geneva, then exhaled in a flurry of broken records and defined standards. Dominated by the "Oscars of Watchmaking" (GPHG) and a historic auction season, the month proved that while the broader market may be softening, the appetite for true rarity and mechanical provenance remains voracious.
Here are five of the most notable developments from the world of horology last month.
1. Industry Pinnacle: GPHG 2025 Awards
The 25th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) concluded on November 13, 2025, offering a decisive snapshot of the industry’s hierarchy. Breguet took home the coveted Aiguille d’Or prize for its Classique Souscription 2025, a single-handed masterpiece that reinforces the brand's classical formality. The same ceremony saw a major win for the independent scene: Dennison, a revived British microbrand, secured the Challenge Watch Prize for its remarkable “Natural Stone Tiger Eye in Gold” model. This dual success signals both the enduring value of high-traditional craft and the growing mechanical competence of agile independent houses.
2. Independent Launch: Studio Underd0g × Massena LAB 03SERIES
Following a preview on November 6, the collaboration between Studio Underd0g and Massena LAB went on sale on November 11, 2025, with the 03SERIES “Champagne & Caviar” model. This piece immediately sold out, demonstrating the fervor for the independent sector. Beyond its playful design, the launch represents a significant technical step up for Studio Underd0g, housing a hand-wound monopusher chronograph powered by a Sellita SW510 M movement. Limited to a run of 200 pieces, the release further cements the trend that the most energetic segment of the market is where creativity meets refined, accessible complications.
3. Professional Depth: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 4th Gen
Omega unveiled the much-anticipated 4th Generation Seamaster Planet Ocean in late November, with the launch event taking place around November 18–21. The redesign focused squarely on wearable ergonomics, shaving off significant bulk from its predecessor. The new model, which has a diameter of 42.0 mm and a thickness of 13.79 mm (down from 16.10 mm), retains its serious 600 m depth rating. Powered by Omega’s METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, the release was backed by a global campaign fronted by new brand ambassadors Glen Powell and Aaron Taylor-Johnson, signaling Omega’s commitment to balancing professional specification with daily comfort.
4. Material Precision: Farer Moonphase Collection
British independent brand Farer solidified its reputation for combining sophisticated design with material rarity by expanding its Moonphase line in early November. The new editions, including the Stratton and the Burbidge Eastern Arabic Edition, are powered by the automatic Sellita SW288 movement. The Stratton, in particular, showcases stunning material precision with a dial cut from genuine Eisenkiesel quartz, a unique, iron-veined stone that ensures no two dials are identical. This release exemplifies how smaller ateliers are leveraging exotic materials and distinctive design languages to disrupt the higher echelons of accessible luxury.
5. Market Milestone: Phillips “Decade One” Auction
The secondary market silenced critics during the Phillips “Decade One (2015–2025)” auction in Geneva on November 8–9, 2025. Celebrating the auction house's dedicated watch division, the "white-glove" (100% sold) sale achieved a staggering total of CHF 66.8 million. The headline lot was a reference-defining 1943 stainless-steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518, which hammered for a monumental CHF 14.19 million. This result set a new world record for a vintage Patek Philippe wristwatch, serving as a powerful and decisive signal of sustained confidence in the highest-quality, blue-chip mechanical timepieces.
November 2025 reinforced that the watch world is currently running at two distinct speeds: a cautious, consolidating retail market for mass luxury, and a white-hot, record-breaking arena for independent creativity and vintage rarity.
