Proof that cockpit instruments don't have to be so samey.

At the risk of putting my neck on the line, I’m going to make a bold statement and say that pilot’s watches, as a general rule, have always led designers down the same well-trodden path. They aren’t exactly hotbeds of innovation, dare I say. A stark black dial with massive white numerals pasted around the hour track and a smattering of luminous paint (not forgetting the obligatory luminous triangle at twelve o’clock, of course), and you can read these dials whether you’re plummeting towards the earth or tumbling out of the local pub at closing time (more likely the latter). It’s a strict, utilitarian formula that undeniably works, but realistically, how many pilot’s watches are worn by actual pilots? And how many of those pilots rely on a watch as a navigational tool? With that in mind, it’s an apt moment to introduce the new Pilot Collection Series II by Farer. These models don’t conform to pedestrian standards, nor do they need to, because Farer acknowledges that pilot’s watches are just as much about flexing a good dose of horological fun as they are unwavering military functionality.

Rather than simply regurgitating the same old historical tropes that plague the industry, Farer has chucked Grade 2 titanium, anti-magnetic wizardry, and actual, proper colours into the mix. The result is a trio of watches tailor-made for the discerning modern enthusiast who, let’s face it, is far more likely to appreciate the dial's aesthetic virtuosity over a flat white than rely on it whilst desperately wrestling the yoke of a vintage Spitfire. Let’s examine exactly what Farer is serving up with the new Curtis, Barnwell, and Hewlett models.

The Cases: Grade 2 Titanium and the Faraday Cage

The very moment you strap a Series II to your wrist, you’ll notice Farer’s remarkably sensible pivot from standard stainless steel to Grade 2 titanium. Not only is this highly beneficial for the sensitive-skinned among us (it’s entirely hypoallergenic), but its strength-to-weight ratio means you won't require immediate physiotherapy after lifting your pint glass. Machining titanium is roughly as straightforward as teaching a cat algebra, so the uniform bead-blasted finish is genuinely impressive and a bit of a feat in and of itself. Basically, it’s expensive to cut and shape, but its strong and lightweight benefits are perfectly suited to the no-nonsense utilitarian brief for any pilot watch. Dimensionally speaking, we find ourselves firmly in the Goldilocks zone; we’ve got the 40mm diameter and a thickness of 10.9mm, plus a lug-to-lug measurement of 43mm.

Rather than perched awkwardly on the wrist like an oversized saucer, this is a watch that actually hugs the arm. The brushed, coin-edge bezel gives a polite nod to vintage flight timers of the past, and tucked safely inside each case is a soft iron Faraday cage. The latter safeguards the movement up to 500 Gauss, which equates to eight times the ISO standards. In everyday terminology, these watches from the Pilot Watch Series II will comfortably survive close encounters with your tablet, the kitchen induction hob, or a particularly aggressive fridge magnet.

The Dials: Propellers, Jet Blades, and Actual Colour

Farer has released three distinct personalities in this collection: the Curtis, Barnwell and Hewlett. Each one anchors the golden age of flight, but with some interesting modifications that could potentially attract a new and younger, discerning audience.

The Curtis

Named after English aviator Eleanor Lettice Curtis, the Curtis is an iteration that features a rather striking blue-grey guilloché dial, smartly split into twelve concave segments. As the light hits it, you’re treated to an optical illusion - a spinning propeller. It’s a brilliant bit of horological theatre, preventing the watch from looking like a static tool and turning it into something you’ll inevitably stare at during dreadfully dull Zoom calls. The 3D markers are formed from ‘Lumicast’, a concoction of ceramic and X2 Super-LumiNova. Admittedly, it sounds slightly radioactive, I know, but it actually provides exceptional dial depth and a glow that traditional flat printing struggles to compete with.

The Barnwell

The Barnwell takes the classic "Type B" layout (with the minutes loitering on the outside track and the hours relegated to a small inner ring) and drenches it in a glorious bronze and sky-blue colour scheme. The dial segments slope anticlockwise, mimicking turbine blades. It’s a cheeky, layered take on a classic layout, but I like it, and it proves you can respect the legibility of a flight instrument but still have a lot of fun doing it.

The Hewlett

Should you value pure legibility above all other earthly things, the Hewlett is your huckleberry. It boasts a rich, ink-blue crosshair dial that provides the perfect, moody backdrop for some large Lumicast numerals to leap out at you. This has to be the most traditional of the trio, but to be fair, navy blue is not a common colour for the pilot’s watch, so the colourway certainly ensures it feels thoroughly modern. Whether you’re reading the time during a tense night flight or simply squinting in a remarkably dimly lit cocktail bar, you won't struggle with the interplay between the contrasting tones and shades of this watch.

Movement and Wearability

Beating away, but out of sight, is the Sellita SW300-1 Elaboré grade movement. It’s a very welcome step up from the standard SW200 workhorse, offering a highly useful 56-hour power reserve (that’s plenty of time to take it off on Friday evening and find it still happily ticking away by Monday morning). While you cannot see the bespoke Farer rotor due to the solid, anti-magnetic case back, it’s going to be a comfort for the more “techy” of collectors to know that it's there doing its job all the same.

Thanks to the lightweight titanium construction and sensible proportions, these watches wear with a poise that entirely belies their rugged credentials. Even the oversized, conical crown, grooved so heavily you could probably strike a match on it, sits comfortably against the hand without digging in. Flight gloves are, of course, entirely optional.

Final Thoughts

The Farer Pilot Series II rather effectively proves that strict historical accuracy doesn’t necessarily have to dictate modern design. These watches happily trade the cumbersome bulk traditionally associated with aviation watches for refined titanium and clever dial artistry. These are thoroughly modern tool watches crafted for a thoroughly modern wearer. If Farer keeps iterating on this blueprint, the old guard of Swiss watchmaking might just need to wake up and smell the coffee, or should I say, flat white.